Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar Review
Not all AP watches are Royal Oaks. For those who are looking for something different, read our Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar review to learn about this fine watch.
Today we’ll be looking at a finer watch. Something less sporty and more dapper. The Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar is the kind of watch you won’t want to wear every day and not because you can’t pull it off. It’s just a special kind of watch that you would want to wear on special occasions.
The watch featured here has a beautiful brown sunray dial, with rose gold index hour markers and hands. A finely printed seconds and minutes track appears in between the applied rose gold index hour markers around the perimeter of the dial.
The Calendar sub-registers are a slightly darker brown and have a white printed typeface to indicate the day, date day of the week, and leap year indicator located at the center of the 12 o’clock sub-dial. In addition, a moon phase is displayed in vivid color at the 6 o’clock position. These calendar functions are adjusted via recessed pushers on the side of the case which we will discuss next.
The 41mm 18kt rose gold case measures 9.1mm thick which is considered somewhat slender for a perpetual calendar watch like this. Small enough to tuck away under your sleeve but still thick enough to feel like a no-joking-around luxury watch. It has polished fixed bezel and lugs with a brushed finish on the side of the case and side of the lugs.
The transparent sapphire case back is secured with 6 screws, 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom. It reveals the magnificence of the in-house caliber.
The movement features an ornately engraved and partially skeletonized solid gold automatic winding rotor. The rotor has a skeleton frame depicting the letters “AP” and is engraved with words describing the various features of the movement such as “ADJ TO HEAT COLD FIVE (5) POSITIONS”, “ISOCHRONISM”, “THIRTY-EIGHT (38) JEWELS”, “SWISS AUTOMATIC”, ornately engraved design elements, and of course the Audemars Piguet logo.
The mechanical movement that powers this watch is none other than the Audemars Piguet caliber 2120/2802. A 38-jewel self-winding caliber with 343 parts, a +/- 40-hour power reserve, and a heartbeat of 2.75Hz or 19,800. Not your standard beat.
Other engravings can be found around the case back. One such example is the name ‘Jules Audemars’ which is engraved in a recessed rounded and curved rectangle wherein which the letters are raised.
The strap is made of a dark brown alligator leather which is thicker at the top where it connects to the lugs of the watch and it tapers down towards the buckle. The strap has a soft calf leather layer on the back of the band where it touches the wrist for more comfortable wear.
The strap uses brown stitching and is fastened to the wrist with a polished 18kt rose gold deployant (folding) buckle that’s designed like a partially skeletonized AP logo. Additionally, the Audemars Piguet wordmark is engraved on the clasp itself.
The icing on the cake with this watch is that it comes with a large beautifully lacquered Audemars Piguet winder box. The winder is powered by a battery and can keep the watch tightly wound and ready to wear any time. It’s very convenient to keep a perpetual calendar watch on a winder since allowing the watch to wind down involves not just resetting the time but also the perpetual calendar. The box comes with a lock and a classic skeleton key. The watch also comes with a tool for setting the calendar functions.
The Rose gold and brown dial look exquisite, yet it is still conservative enough to not look like a flashy watch. Some AP watches are all about the bling; this one seems to be all about the horology and the craftsmanship. This AP watch took me by surprise. It doesn’t have that big and chunky ROO look. It’s more refined and has a perpetual calendar, a high complication that isn’t typically found on an AP watch at this price.
The retail price on this watch is about $62,000 but you can buy one at a huge discount (new) for $29,500 here. It comes with a 5-year warranty from AP (2 years plus an additional 3 years when you register it with AP).